Bible Encyclopedias
Canterbury

The Cathedral

It was to Canterbury, as the capital of ZEthelberht, the fourth Saxon king of Kent, that in J97 Augustine and his fellow-missionaries came from Rome, and their settlement by lEthelberht in his capital became the origin of its position, held ever since, as the metropolis of the Church of England. ZEthelberht, whose queen, Bertha, was already a Christian, gave the missionaries a church whose mythical founder was King Lucius. Augustine was a Benedictine and established the monastery of that order attached to the cathedral; this foundation was set upon a firm basis after the Norman Conquest by Archbishop Lanfranc, who placed its charge (as distinct from that of the diocese) in the hands of a prior.

Preparatory to the description of the cathedral, the principal epochs in the history of its erection may be noted. The RomanoBritish church occupied by St Augustine, of basilica form, remained long in use, though it was largely rebuilt by Archbishop Odo, c. 950; after further vicissitudes it was destroyed by fire in 1067. Archbishop Lanfranc, taking up his office in 1070, undertook the building of an entirely new church, but under Anselm (c. i loo) Prior Ernulf rebuilt the eastern part, and his successor Conrad carried on the work. A fire destroyed much of this part of the building in 1174, and from that year the architect, William of Sens, took up the work of rebuilding until 1178, when, on his suffering serious injury by falling from a scaffold, another William, commonly distinguished as the Englishman, carried on the work and completed it in 1184. In 1 3 76 Archbishop Sudbury entered upon the construction of a new nave, and Prior Chillenden continued this under Archbishop Courtenay. The building of the central tower was undertaken c. 1495 by Prior Goldstone, with the counsel of Selling, his predecessor, and Archbishop Morton.

This Perpendicular tower is the most notable feature of the exterior. It rises in two storeys to a height of 235 ft. from the ground, and is known variously as Bell Harry tower Exterior. from the great bell it contains, or as the Angel steeple from the gilded figure of an angel which formerly adorned the summit. The Perpendicular nave is flanked at the west front by towers, whose massive buttresses, rising in tiers, serve to enhance by contrast the beautiful effect of the unbroken straight lines of Bell Harry tower. The south-western of these towers is an original Perpendicular structure by Prior Goldstone, while the north-western was copied from it in 1834-1840, replacing a Norman tower which had carried a spire until 1705 and had become unsafe. The north-west and south-west transepts are included in Chillenden's Perpendicular reconstruction; but east of these earlier work is met with. The south-east transept exhibits Norman work; the projecting chapel east of this is known as Anselm's tower. The cathedral terminates eastward in a graceful apsidal form, with the final addition of the circular eastern chapel built by William the Englishman, and known as the Corona or Becket's Crown. St Andrew's tower or chapel on the north side, corresponding to Anselm's on the south, is the work of Ernulf. From this point westward the various monastic buildings adjoin the cathedral on the north side, so that the south side is that from which the details of the exterior must be examined.

When the nave of the cathedral is entered, the complete separation of the interior into two main parts, not only owing to the distinction between the two main periods of Interior. building, but by an actual structural arrangement, is realized as an unusual and, as it happens, a most impressive feature. In most English cathedrals the choir is separated from the nave by a screen; at Canterbury not only is this the case, but the separation is further marked by a broad flight of steps leading up to the screen, the choir floor (but not its roof) being much higher than that of the nave. Chillenden, in rebuilding the nave, retained only the lower parts of some of the early Norman walls of Lanfranc and the piers of the central tower arches. These piers were encased or altered on Perpendicular lines. In the choir, the late 12th-century work of the two Williams, the notable features are its great length, the fine ornamentation and the use of arches both round and pointed, a remarkable illustration of the transition between the Norman and Early English styles; the prolific use of dark marble in the shafts and mouldings strongly contrasting with the light stone which is the material principally used; and, finally, the graceful incurve of the main arcades and walls at the eastern end of the choir where it joins the chapel of the Trinity, an arrangement necessitated by the preservation of the earlier flanking chapels or towers of St Anselm` and St Andrew. From the altar eastward the floor of the church is raised again above that of the choir. The choir screen was built by Prior de Estria, c. 1300. The organ is not seen, being hidden in the triforium and played from the choir. There are several tombs of archbishops in the choir. The south-east transept serves as the chapel of the King's school and exhibits the work of William of Sens in alteration of that of Ernulf. Anselm's chapel or tower, already mentioned, may be noticed again as containing a Decorated window (1336). This style is not common in the cathedral.

Behind the altar is Trinity Chapel, in the centre of which stood the celebrated shrine of St Thomas of Canterbury. The priory owed its chief fame to the murder of Archbishop Becket's Becket (1170) in the church, his canonization as St shrine. Thomas of Canterbury, and the resort of the Christian Pilgrim- world on pilgrimage to his shrine. Miracles were ages. almost immediately said to be worked at his grave in the crypt and at the well in which his garments had been washed; and from the time when Henry II. did his penance for the murder in the church, and the battle of Alnwick was gained over the Scots a few days afterwards - it was supposed as a result - the History of the building. fame of the martyr's power and the popularity of his worship became established in England. On the rebuilding of the cathedral after the fire of I 174, a magnificent shrine was erected for him in Trinity Chapel, which was built for the purpose, and became thronged for three centuries by pilgrims and worshippers of all classes, from kings and emperors downward. Henceforward the interests of the city became bound up in those of the cathedral, and were shown in the large number of hostels for the accommodation of pilgrims, and of shops containing wares especially suited to their tastes. A pilgrimage to Canterbury became not only a pious exercise, but a favourite summer excursion; and the poet Chaucer, writing in the 14th century, gives an admirable picture of such pilgrimages, with the manners and behaviour of a party of pilgrims, leisurely enjoying the journey and telling stories on the road. The English language even preserved two words originating in these customs-a "Canterbury," or a "Canterbury tale," a phrase used for a fiction, and a "canter," which is a short form for a "canterbury gallop," an allusion to the easy pace at which these pilgrimages were performed. The shrine with its vast collected wealth was destroyed, and every reminiscence connected with it as far as possible effaced, by King Henry VIII.'s commissioners in 1538. But some of the beautiful old windows of stained glass, illustrating the miracles wrought in connexion with the saint, are preserved. The north-west transept was the actual scene of Becket's murder; the spot where he fell is shown on the floor, but this part of the building is of later date than the tragedy.

Close to the site of the shrine is the fine tomb of Edward the Black Prince, with a remarkable portrait effigy, and above it his helmet, shield and other equipment. There is also in this chapel the tomb of King Henry IV. The Corona, at the extreme east of the church, contains the so-called St Augustine's chair in which the archbishops are enthroned. It is of marble, but its name is not deserved, as it dates probably from c. 1200. The western part of the crypt, beneath the choir, is the work of Ernulf, and perhaps incorporates some of Lanfranc's work. The chapel of St John or St Gabriel, beneath Anselm's tower, is still used for service, in which the French language is used; it was devoted to this purpose in 1561, on behalf of French Protestant refugees, who were also permitted to carry on their trade as weavers in the crypt. The eastern and loftier part of the crypt, with its apsidal termination, is the work of William the Englishman. Here for some time lay the body of Becket, and here the celebrated penance of Henry was performed.

The chief entrance to the precincts is through an ornate gateway at the south-west, called Christchurch gateway, and built by Prior Goldstone in 1517. Among the remains of Norman ruins of the infirmary, the fine two-storeyed treasury and the lavatory tower, Norman in the lower part and Perpendicular in the upper. The cloisters are of various dates, containing a little rich Norman work, but were very largely rebuilt by Prior Chillenden. The upper part of the chapterhouse is also his work, but the lower is by Prior de Estria. The library is modern. The site of the New Hall of the monastery is covered by modern buildings of King's school, but the Norman entry-stair is preserved-a magnificent example of the style, with highly ornate arcading.

The principal dimensions of the cathedral are: length (outside) 522 ft., nave 178 ft., choir 180 ft. The nave is 71 ft. in breadth and 80 ft. in height.

The archbishop of Canterbury is primate of all England; the ecclesiastical province of Canterbury covers England I. Augustine, 597 to 605.

2. Lawrence (Laurentius), 605 to 619.

3. Mellitus, 619 to 624.

4. Justin, 624 to 627.

5. Honorius, 627 to 6J3.

Io. Nothelm, 734 to 740.

II. Cuthbert, 740 to 758.

12. Breogwine, 759 to 762.60.

13. Jaenberht, 763 to 790.

14. ZEthelhard, 790 to 803.61.

15. Wulfred, 803 to 829.

16. Fleogild, 829 to 830.62.

17. Ceolnoth, 830 to 870.1443.

18. Æthelred, 870 to 889.63. John Stafford, 1443 to 1452.

20.1Ethelm, 914 to 923.

19. Plegemund, 889 to 914.64. John Kemp, 1452 to 145465. Thomas Bourchier, 1454 to 21. Wulfelm, 923 to 942.1486.

66. John Morton, 1486 to 1500.

22. Odo, 942 to 95967. Henry Dean (Dene), 1501 to 23. fElsine, 959.

24. Dunstan, 960 to 988.1503.

William Warham, 1503 to 25. ZEthelgar, 988 to 989.68.

26. Sigeric, 990 to 994.1532.

69. Thomas Cranmer, 1533 to 27. lEelfric, 995 to 1005.

28. Alphege (iElfeah), 1005 to 1556.

70. Reginald Pole, 1556 to 1558.1012.

71. Matthew Parker, 1559 to 29. Lyfing, 1013 to 1020.

30. ZEthelnoth, 1020 to 1038.1575.

72. Edmund Grindal, 1575 to 31. Eadsige, 1038 to 1050.

32. Robert of Jumieges, 1051 to 1583.

73. John Whitgift, 1583 to 1604.1052.74. Richard Bancroft, 1604 to 33. Stigand, 1052 to 1070.

34. Lanfranc, 1070 to 1089.1610.

George Abbot, 1610 to 1633.

35. Anselm, 1093 to 110 9.75. William Laud, 1633 to 1645.

36. Ralph de Turbine, 1114 to 76. William Juxon, 1660 to 1663.1122.77.

Gilbert Sheldon, 1663 to 37. William de Corbeuil (Cur78.

bellio), 1123 to 1136.1677.

79. William Sancroft, 1678 to 38. Theobald, 1 139 to 1161.1691.

39. Thomas Becket, I 162 to 1170.80. John Tillotson, 1691 to 1694.

40. Richard, 1174 to 1184.81. Thomas Tenison, 1694 to 41. Baldwin, 1185 to 1190.

42. Reginald Fitz-Jocelyn, 1191.1715.

am Wa k e, 1716 to 173743. Hubert Walter, 1193 to 1205.82. John Potter, 1737 to 174744. Stephen Langton, 1207 to 83. Thomas Herring, 1747 to 1228.84.

45. Richard Wethershed, 1229 1757.

Matthew Hutton, 1757 to to 1231.85.

46. EdmundRich (deAbbendon) 1758.

Thomas Secker, 1758 to 1234 to 1240.86.

47. Boniface of Savoy, 1241 to 1768.

Frederick Cornwallis, 1768 1270.87.

48. Robert Kilwa.rdby, 1273 to to 1783.

John Moore, 1783 to 1805.1278.88. Charles Manners-Sutton, 49. John Peckham, 1279 to 1292.89.

50. Robert Winchelsea, 1293 to 1805 to 1828.

William Howley, 1828 to 51. Walter Reynolds, 1313 to 90.1848.

John Bird Sumner, 1848 to 1327.91.1862.

52. Simon de Meopham, 1328 to 92. Charles Thomas Longley, 1 3331862 to 1868.

53. John Stratford, 1333 to 1348.93. Archibald Campbell Tait, 54. John de Ufford, 1348 to 134955. Thomas Bradwardin, 1349.1868 to 1882.

94. Edward White Benson, 1882 56. Simon Islip, 1349 to 1366.

57. Simon Langham, 1366 to to 1896.

95. Frederick Temple, 1896 to 1368.

58. William Whittlesea, 1368 1903.

96. Randall Thomas Davidson. to 1374.

The archbishop has a seat at Lambeth Palace, London. There are fragments in Palace Street of the old archbishop's palace which have been incorporated with a modern palace.

Other Ecclesiastical Foundations. - Canterbury naturally abounded in religious foundations. The most important, apart from the cathedral, was the Benedictine abbey of St Augustine. This was erected on a site granted by King ZEthelberht outside his capital, in a tract called Longport. Augustine dedicated it to St Peter and St Paul, but Archbishop Dunstan added the sainted name of the founder to the dedication, and in common use it came to exclude those of the apostles. The site is now occupied by St Augustine's Missionary College, founded in 1844 when the property was acquired by A. J. B. Beresford Hope. Some ancient remnants are preserved, the principal being the entrance gateway (1300), with the cemetery gate, dated a century later, and the guest hall, now the refectory; but the scanty ruins of St Pancras' chapel are of high interest, and embody Roman material. The chapel is said to have received its dedication from St Augustine on account of the special association of St Pancras with children, and in connexion with the famous story of St Gregory, whose attention was first attracted to Britain 6. Deusdedit (Frithona), 655 to 664.

7. Theodore, 668 to 690.

8. Brethwald (Berhtuald), 693 to 7 3 1.

9. Taetwine, 7 3 1 to 734 Monastic the monastic buildings there may be mentioned the buildings. g y Province and Wales south of Cheshire and Yorkshire; and the and diocese. diocese covers a great part of Kent with a small part of Sussex. The following is a list of archbishops of Canterbury: 59.

Simon Sudbury, 1375 to 1381.

William Courtenay, 1381 to 1396.

Thomas Arundel, 1396 to 1414.

Henry Chicheley, 1414 to when he saw the fair-faced children of the Angles who had been brought to Rome, and termed them "not Angles but angels." There were lesser houses of many religious orders in Canterbury, but only two, those of the Dominicans near St Peter's church in St Peter's Street, and the Franciscans, also in St Peter's Street, have left notable remains. The Dominican refectory is used as a chapel. Among the many churches, St Martin's, Longport, is of the first interest. This was the scene of the earliest work of Augustine in Canterbury, and had seen Christian service before his arrival. Its walls contain Roman masonry, but whether it is in part a genuine remnant of a Romano-British Christian church is open to doubt. There are Norman, Early English and later portions; and the font may be in part preNorman, and is indeed associated by tradition with the baptism of IEthelberht himself. St Mildred's church exhibits Early English and Perpendicular work, and the use of Roman material is again visible here. St Paul's is of Early English origin; St Dunstan's, St Peter's and Holy Cross are mainly Decorated and Perpendicular. The village of Harbledown, on the hill west of Canterbury on the London road, from the neighbourhood of which a beautiful view over the city is obtained, has many associations with the ecclesiastical life of Canterbury. It is mentioned by Chaucer in his pilgrimage under the name, appropriate to its site, of "Bob up and down." The almshouses, which occupy the site of Lanfranc's hospital for lepers, include an ancient hall and a chapel in which the west door and northern nave arcade are Norman, and are doubtless part of Lanfranc's buildings. The neighbouring parish church is in great part rebuilt. Among the numerous charitable institutions in Canterbury there are several which may be called the descendants of medieval ecclesiastical foundations.

City Buildings, &c. - The old city walls may be traced, and the public walk called the Dane John (derived probably from donjon) follows the summit of a high artificial mound within the lines. The cathedral is finely seen from this point. Only the massive turreted west gate, of the later part of the 14th century, remains out of the former six city gates. The site of the castle is not far from the Dane John, and enough remains of the Norman keep to show its strength and great size. Among other buildings and institutions there may be mentioned the guildhall in High Street, of the early part of the 18th century; the museum, which includes a fine collection of local, including many Roman, relics; and the school of art, under municipal management, but founded by the painter T. Sidney Cooper (d. 1902), who was a resident at Harbledown. A modern statue of a muse commemorates the poet Christopher Marlowe (1564-1593), a native of the city; and a pillar indicates the place where a number of persons were burnt at the stake in the reign of Mary.

The King's school, occupying buildings adjacent to the cathedral, developed out of the early teaching furnished by the monastery. It was refounded by Henry VIII. in 1541 (whence its name), and is managed on the lines of ordinary public schools. It has about 250 boys; and there is besides a junior or preparatory school. The school is still connected with the ecclesiastical foundation, the dean and chapter being its governors.

A noted occasion of festivity in Canterbury is the Canterbury cricket-week, when the Kent county cricket eleven engages in matches with other first-class teams, and many visitors are attracted to the city.

Canterbury has a considerable agriculture trade, breweries, tanneries, brickworks and other manufactures. The parliamentary borough returns one member. The city is governed by a mayor, 6 aldermen and 18 councillors. Area, 3955 acres.

History of the City. - The existence of a Romano-British town on the site of Canterbury has already been indicated. It was named Durovernum, and was a flourishing county town on the road from the Kentish ports to London. Mosaic pavements and other remains have been found in considerable abundance. The city, known by the Saxons as Cantwaraburh, the town of the men of Kent, was the metropolis of iEthelberht's kingdom. At the time of the Domesday survey Canterbury formed part of the royal demesne and was governed by a portreeve as it had been before the Conquest. In the 13th and 14th centuries, two bailiffs presided over the burghmote, assisted by a larger and smaller council. Henry II., by an undated charter, confirmed former privileges and granted to the citizens that no one should implead them outside the city walls and that the pleas of the crown should be decided according to the customs of the city. In 1256 Henry III. granted them the city at an annual fee farm of 60, also the right of electing their bailiffs. Confirmations of former charters with additional liberties were granted by later sovereigns, and Henry VI. incorporated Canterbury, which he called "one of our most ancient cities," under the style of the mayor and commonalty, the mayor to be elected by the burgesses. James I. in 1609 confirmed these privileges, giving the burgesses the right to be called a body corporate and to elect twelve aldermen and a common council of twenty-four. Charles II., after calling in the charters of corporations, granted a confirmation in 1684. Canterbury was first represented in parliament in 1283, and it continued to return two members until 1885, when the number was reduced to one. A fair was granted by Henry VI. to the citizens to be held in the city or suburbs on the 4th of August and the two days following; other fairs were in the hands of the monasteries; the corn and cattle markets and a general market have been held by prescription from time immemorial. Canterbury was a great centre of the silk-weaving trade in the 17th century, large numbers of Walloons, driven by persecution to England, having settled there in the reign of Elizabeth. In 1676 Charles II. granted a charter of incorporation to the Walloon congregation under style of the master, wardens and fellowship of weavers in the city of Canterbury. The market for the sale of corn and hops was regulated by a local act in 1801.

See A. P. Stanley, Historical Memorials of Canterbury (London, 1855); J. Brent, Canterbury in the Olden Time (Canterbury, 1879); J. W. Legg and W. H. St J. Hope, Inventories of Christchurch, Canterbury (London, 1902); Victoria County History, Kent.